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Getting Paid

Roofing deposit on an insurance job: how much and when

Four state deposit rules applied to the same $18,400 roof, the order insurance money actually arrives in, and six things to check in the deposit line of your contract.

Roofing deposit on an insurance job, a guide for roofing contractors on state limits and timing

A roofing deposit on an insurance job should be the smaller of two numbers: what your state lets you collect before work starts, and what the money already in the homeowner's hands can cover. In practice that is usually the deductible plus the cost of materials you have to order, and almost never the whole first insurance check on the day the contract is signed.

I build CRM For Claims, and the deposit is the first money question on almost every claim file I see. It looks simple because on a retail roof it is simple: one price, one payer, a third down. On a claim the price can still move, the money arrives in pieces from different people, and some of it is held by a bank you have never spoken to. This post covers the state limits I could read from official sources today, the order the money actually shows up in, and what to put in the contract. I'm not a lawyer, so treat the state rules as a starting point for a conversation with yours.

How much can you legally take before work starts?

It depends entirely on the state where the house is. Some states cap the deposit in dollars, some cap it as a share of the contract, some attach deadlines to a large deposit, and many have no statewide cap at all. Here are four that show the range, each applied to the same $18,400 roof replacement.

CaliforniaCSLB

The down payment cannot be more than $1,000 or 10 percent of the contract price, whichever is less. The licensing board says there are no exceptions for special-order materials, and later payments cannot run ahead of the work done.

$1,000On any contract above $10,000 the dollar cap is the one that applies.
Floridas. 489.126

No fixed cap, but a contractor who takes more than 10 percent as the first payment has to apply for permits within 30 days and start work within 90 days after the permits are issued.

$1,840Anything above this starts both clocks. Miss them and the deposit becomes a legal problem.
MarylandMHIC

A contractor cannot accept more than one third of the contract price as a deposit, and cannot accept any payment at all until the contract is signed.

$6,133And not a dollar collected at the kitchen table before both signatures are on the page.
Massachusettsc. 142A s. 2

The deposit may not exceed the greater of one third of the contract price or the actual cost of special-order or custom materials. Final payment cannot be demanded until the job is finished to both sides' satisfaction.

$6,133More only if special-order material really costs more than that, and you can show the invoice.

Two things stand out. The same roof allows a deposit anywhere from $1,000 to over $6,000 depending on the address, so a company working across a state line cannot use one contract form. Two of the four rules also reach past the amount: Florida cares about what you do after you take the money, Maryland about when you take it. If your state is not on this list, look up its home improvement or residential contractor statute, or ask your licensing board directly. A rule on a blog (this one included) is not the rule in your state.

Deposit limits on one 18,400 dollar roof in California, Florida, Maryland and Massachusetts

Where does the deposit money come from on a claim?

From whatever has already been paid, which on a claim is less than the contract total for most of the job. The homeowner owes the deductible no matter what. The carrier usually pays the actual cash value first and holds the recoverable depreciation until the work is done. A deposit that asks for more than those two pieces is asking the homeowner to fund the job from savings.

This is where a retail habit hurts. On a cash roof, a third down is a third of money the customer has already decided to spend. On a claim, a third of the contract may be more than the homeowner has received, especially when the adjuster's scope is still lower than yours and a supplement is pending. Here is the usual order on a roof claim:

MoneyWho pays itWhen it usually arrivesWho may be holding it
DeductibleThe homeownerWhenever your contract says, often at signing or at material deliveryThe homeowner
Actual cash value (ACV)The carrierAfter the adjuster's estimate is approved, often before work startsThe homeowner, or the mortgage company if it is named on the check
SupplementThe carrierAfter you document what the first scope missed, sometimes mid-jobThe carrier until approved
Recoverable depreciationThe carrierAfter the work is complete and proof of completion is sentThe carrier

The last row is the one that should shape your deposit thinking. The depreciation holdback can be a large slice of a roof claim, and it does not exist as money until you have finished. Our post on recovering depreciation after the work is done covers that packet. The deductible has its own rules too, and waiving or absorbing it is illegal in a number of states; the deductible rules for contractors post goes through them.

When the mortgage company is on the first check

If the homeowner has a mortgage, the ACV check often comes payable to both the homeowner and the lender. Until the lender endorses it, nobody can deposit it, and on larger claims the lender may put the money in a restricted account and release it in stages after inspections. A deposit that depends on that check is a deposit you will be waiting weeks for, with materials already on order. Ask on the first visit whether there is a mortgage and which servicer, then read what happens when the mortgage company is on the insurance check before you promise a start date.

What to write into the contract about the deposit

The amount, what it pays for, and what happens to it if the job stops. A homeowner reading the deposit line should be able to answer all three without calling you. Before the next storm season, I would check these six lines on any contract form:

  1. Write the deposit as a dollar figure, not "a third" or "the first check".A share of a contract price that can still change with a supplement is a number nobody can check. California requires the actual amount under its own heading.
  2. Say what the deposit buys.Materials ordered for this house, the permit, a place on the schedule. In Massachusetts a deposit above one third has to match the real cost of special-order material, so keep that supplier invoice in the file.
  3. Tie it to a signed contract and a date.Maryland forbids taking anything before both sides have signed. Even where that is not the law, a payment with no signed contract behind it is a dispute waiting for a reason.
  4. State what is refunded if the homeowner cancels inside the right-to-cancel window.Our post that reads a roofing contingency agreement clause by clause shows how the cancel window and the refund deadline line up, and why ordering material on the wrong day costs you.
  5. Put your permit and start dates where a large deposit triggers them.In Florida, a first payment over 10 percent means a permit application within 30 days. Put that date on your own calendar the day the money clears.
  6. Never make the deposit equal to the deductible "so the homeowner pays nothing else".That sentence reads like a deductible waiver to a carrier, even when you meant something else by it.

Notice what is not on the list: a percentage that "most roofers" use. The right deposit for a claim job is the one you can defend against the statute and against the money actually in play, and that changes from file to file.

Keep track of which money exists and where it is

Most deposit trouble starts in the office, not on the roof. Someone sees a contract total of $18,400, assumes the first check is in, orders material, and two weeks later learns the check is sitting with the mortgage company waiting for an inspection. The fix is to record each payment as its own thing, with who owes it and where it is right now.

In CRM For Claims every invoice carries a payment type, and the list holds Actual Cash Value (ACV) and Deductible next to Retail Down Payment and Retail Progress Payment for the part the homeowner pays outside the claim. Each invoice also records where that money is: held by the insurance company, held by the customer, held by the mortgage company, or in your office and not deposited yet. A check that has reached your bank but has not cleared shows as Deposited - Not Cleared, so nobody orders a roof against money that can still bounce.

That turns the deposit question into something you can look up instead of something you guess. The estimates and invoicing page shows how claim invoices are split, and loss draft tracking covers the checks a lender is holding.

CRM For Claims income screen listing claim invoices with payment type and status

If your deposit line still says "33% at signing" on every claim, it is worth an hour this month to rewrite it state by state. And if you want to see how the payments on one claim look side by side, book a live walkthrough and bring a job where the first check took longer than you planned.

Frequently asked questions

How much deposit can a roofer ask for on an insurance claim?

It depends on the state where the house is. California caps it at 1,000 dollars or 10 percent, whichever is less. Maryland and Massachusetts allow up to one third, Massachusetts more only for special-order materials. Florida has no cap but sets permit and start deadlines on a first payment above 10 percent. Many states have no statewide cap.

Should the roofing deposit be the first insurance check?

Usually not. The first check pays actual cash value and is often payable to the mortgage company as well as the homeowner, so it can be held for weeks. A deposit is safer when it covers the deductible and materials ordered for that house, within the state limit.

Can a roofer collect a deposit before the contract is signed?

In Maryland a contractor may not accept any payment until the contract is signed by both sides. Elsewhere it may not be banned outright, but a payment with no signed contract behind it gives neither side anything to point to if the job stops.

What happens to the deposit if the homeowner cancels?

If the homeowner cancels inside the legal right-to-cancel window, the deposit is generally refunded, less what your state and contract allow for work already done. The contract should say how and when that refund is made.

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